NUTRITION AND CRATE TRAINING |
| CRATE-POTTY TRAINING
| WALKING YOUR DOG
| TRAVEL WITH YOUR DOG
HOW TO GLUE GERMAN SHEPHERD PUPPY EARS
| DEVELOPMENTAL STAGES & SOCIALIZATION
FEEDING & GROOMING
Here's a list of items to purchase and
some tips to get started
The puppies will have their health
certificate from my vet confirming
they are healthy and free of
They will have their 1st set of
inoculations (types listed on their
They will be micro chipped for
identification (chip number will be
You should visit your vet within (48)
hours of getting your puppy home to
confirm that your puppy is in good
health, bring their health certificate
Your vet will set up an appointment
with you do additional vaccines, I
suggest that you follow the protocol
that your vet suggests, vaccine types
and schedule may vary depending on the
region that you live in.
* I strongly recommend that you wait
until your puppy is 6 months old
before vaccinating for rabies, give
their systems time to deal with all
the other vaccines that they will be
I have been feeding and suggest that
you feed the puppies Purina Pro Plan
Sport, All Stages
You should feed the puppy 1 cup of
kibble 3x's a day (gradually increase
food as needed).
It’s VERY important to “Know your
Puppy/Dog”. Feed using common sense.
If their stool becomes mushy it’s a
good indication that you are over
feeding, cut back a little until you
find the proper ratio for “Your
It’s important to know
that large breed dogs will grow at a
rapid rate, you must properly manage
how you are feeding your puppy.
of the adverse affects of improper
food management can be Panosteitis, or
Please read up on this, here
is the link. http://www.critterchat.net/pano.htm
Heart Guard Plus:
Start at 9 weeks of age.
- Frozen Carrots
RAW beef marrow bones (Do Not
Cook) give frozen, you can find them
in the meat department at your grocery
store, and they are usually cut in
hockey puck size.
Give (1) a week, they will eat the
marrow out of the bone in a day or so,
wash and re-fill with peanut butter or
the squirt cheese in a can and then
Throw out after a week or so and start
again with a frozen marrow bone, be
careful not to give too much marrow it
will give them mushy poop.
It's very import that they have a bone
to chew on while they are teething, it
will also strengthen their jaw muscles
which in turn will help their ears to
go up strong.
* Thin slices of raw hot dogs are good
treats for training but try to keep it
to a minimum.
milk bones or commercial treats.
Rawhide or pigs ears.
Table Food or left overs.
- New Joint Plus Supplement for the
first 12 months of age. This
supplement needs to be purchased
through their website
or by calling (800) 474-7044, you
MUST use the order code #
19362, by doing so will keep a
record of your order for me to review.
Failure to give this supplement, or to
use the code provided when ordering
will result in the hip guarantee being
null and void.
- Vanilla or Plain Whole Milk Greek
Yogurt immediately (1) T-spoon once a
Wild Atlantic Salmon Oil at 14 weeks
(once a day)
Crate for Potty training
MIDWEST Lifestages Metal Dog Crate
with Divider Panel
Large 42 x 28 x 31 H
* Adjust the space in the crate
according to the puppies’ size. They
should have room to stand, lay down
and turn around. If you give them to
much space they will pee or poop in
the crate as long as they don't have
to lay in it. Adjust the space in the
crate as they grow, they should be
completely crate trained by 12 weeks
of age. Remember, their bladders are
not fully developed as a young puppy
so be sure to cut their water off by
about 6 PM and walk them before going
to bed (11:00 PM or so).
You should keep their crate close by
so you can hear them should they start
to cry in the middle of the night.
Don't take them out if they are crying
because they are in the crate, let
them cry, they will eventually quite
down and settle in for the night, the
3-4 AM cry is usually the one you need
to pay attention to. Take them out to
go potty and praise them when they do
their business. They should be able to
get through the night in a week or
Nyla Bones are good, Kongs are good,
Cuz' are good....all durable toys.
A Soft Slicker Brush, a Rake and a
Medium Stainless Steel Comb are all
* Bathe no more then 4-5 times a year
(use an oatmeal shampoo with aloe).
You do not want to take the oils out
of your dog’s skin, over bathing will
If your dog gets some mud or dirt on
them just rinse them off with fresh
water, no shampoo or soap is
* Clean ears once a week or more if
needed with 1/2 part warm water and
1/2 part distilled white vinegar.
put it in a bowl and dip a piece of an
old T-shirt in it wipe the ears clean.
Make sure the rag is not dripping wet,
ring it out first.
* I comb and
brush twice a week (more if shedding).
mist very sparingly with Avon Skin So
Soft Bath Oil Spray diluted in 1/2
with water every 2 weeks or so. A
little goes a long way! ..... Mist
sparingly (oil base) and rub it their
hair real good. It will keep them
smelling good and is a natural
deterrent against fleas & ticks.
Book/Reference: The Total German
Shepherd Dog by Fred Lanting
This is a great reference book that
covers many subjects, a good book
to have over the years.
We know how important it is for your dog to be well socialized and to receive the proper training. A well socialized, trained dog is a welcome anywhere. We are committed to helping provide tried and true training methods to help you reach your long term goals with your dog. There is nothing more important to us than our customers having a wonderful relationship with their new dog. Your success is our success! We have provided information here on basic training methods to help you along with the different stages of development in your dog's life.
Dogs are pack animals and every pack needs a leader. It is up to you to lead your dog to sound health and mental and emotional stability. The key to this is for you to provide guidance and discipline in your dog's environment.
Remember - There are no bad dogs, only uneducated owners!
Common Dog Commands in Several Languages
• Over the years the most commonly
asked question I get is "How do I
potty train my new puppy?"
answer is CRATE TRAINING!
Remember, a dog is a den loving
animal. They love to feel a wall
against their back for security. A
crate should serve as a den or home
base, NEVER as a punishment area.
• A Day in the Life of Your
• Your puppy should
sleep in their crate. When your puppy
wakes up take them out to the area you
wish to be the designated potty area.
Make sure you pick up the puppy
immediately when getting them out of
the crate and carry them out to the
potty area. Praise the puppy
immediately after they go to the
bathroom and then reward them with
some friendly play. The dog will learn
that it is fun to go potty outside.
NEVER SCOLD the pup
if it has an accident. Just show them
where to go and say the words "Go
potty" or some other similar
descriptive to indicate the activity
you wish the pup to do. Give the pup
ample time to understand and then
repeat the process. Take the pup out
again after they have had time to
digest food or water and repeat the
task. Repetition, repetition,
• Another way to
accomplish this chore is to create a
long-term confinement area. This is
useful for those who work long hours
or want the dog to live in an
apartment or restricted area. The
major purpose of long-term confinement
is to restrict "mistakes" to a small
area. It is unrealistic
to expect a young puppy to have
sufficient control to "hold it" for
more than a few hours, so when you
need to leave your puppy for longer
periods of time, confine them to an
area where they have access to a
"doggie toilet" such as some
newspapers, puppy pads, or a square of
artificial grass turf in a pan. This
is a temporary measure until your dog
is old enough to be able to "hold it"
for longer periods of time.
After a month or so, you can gradually
increase the time between potty
breaks. By the time the pup is about 8
months old and has developed
sufficient bladder and bowel control,
you can expect the pup to sleep
through the night without having to go
• The Quick Track
• Following these
simple steps will ensure your puppy is
house trained as quickly as possible: br>•
When you can't watch your puppy for
short periods of time, confine them to
• When you
can't watch your puppy for longer
periods of time confine them to a
long-term confinement area. An
exercise pen is the perfect tool for
this situation. It is safe and easy to
move to another area.
• When you
spend time with your puppy in your
home, keep him on a leash while they
are free in the house.
•• Make sure
you praise your pup the minute they go
• Mistakes and
• If you find
an accident in the house DO NOT
reprimand your dog. All this does is
teach your dog that you don't like to
see them eliminate, which will cause
the dog to do it in a hidden spot such
as a closet or behind the couch or
wait until you are not looking.
Supervision: Spending Time in
the House with Your New Puppy
• When you are home and want to
spend time with your puppy, keep them
on a leash by your side or tethered
near you while they rest or play with
toys. This way they can't run around
the house and make mistakes. Just as
with the long-term confinement area,
this is a temporary measure until your
dog is house and chew trained and can
be trusted to spend time alone free in
the house. Until then, they can't get
into trouble if you are attached to
the other end of the leash. br>•
Every 45-60 minutes take your 8-10
week old pup to the potty area. The
older your pup gets, the less you will
need to take them to potty and the
more time they can spend off-leash in
the house with you supervising.
All three of these training aids:
short-term confinement, long-term
confinement, and supervision are used
in an effort to create a dog that can
eventually be trusted to spend time in
your home when you are not there. As a
general rule, most dogs should not be
allowed to roam unsupervised until
they are at least 9 months old or
older. However, some dogs can handle
such freedom sooner, and some dogs
cannot until they are well over a year
old. Remember, dogs are as individual
as we are!
• Wrong kennel
size: be sure you purchase a large
kennel that will house the dog as an
adult (this will save you money). You
can purchase kennels/crates with
dividers. This allows you to make the
area smaller for potty training
purposes. Do not try to push things
along too quickly. A puppy's bladder
is not fully developed. It is
physically impossible for them to
"hold it"! br>
Feeding concerns: be sure to schedule
feedings and watering so that your dog
has adequate time to eliminate before
•• Separation stress:
consider getting another dog as a
companion if you are gone for long
periods of time every day. If your dog
becomes very lonely or bored it may
develop bad habits such as barking,
chasing its tail; and many other
Time Out: Kennel Training (positive
the kennel should never be used to
punish your dog, it is very effective
as a place for your dog to have a
brief time-out. Time-outs help to
eliminate unwanted behaviors such as
puppy nipping children, excessive
rowdiness and attention-seeking,
behaviors such as whining, chewing, or
general non-attentiveness. br>• Time-outs are
most effective if they are delivered
as unemotionally as possible. For
example: if your puppy is nipping,
give him a tug toy. This teaches them
what is acceptable for chewing. For
most pups, a few repetitions of this
are enough for them to begin to get
the idea that nipping people is not
okay, but chewing on a toy is. But, if
your pup is not making the connection,
you might consider letting him spend a
few minutes in his kennel/crate to get
control of himself. Calmly walk him to
his kennel, and avoid any verbal or
physical reprimands. After a few
minutes, let him out and try another
4 + (6 hours max.)
Walking a Puppy:
We can only tell you, that a puppy learns by having fun. Teaching your dog how to walk on a leash is no different.
Begin with your puppy collar, and keep the collar snug. Make sure you can slip two fingers under the collar once it is on the puppy. You never want to use a choke collar on a puppy. Many people are under the mistaken impression that you must keep your puppy controlled at all times. On the contrary, puppies should be allowed to be puppies!
So, be kind and caring, and use short jerks of the leash, and then release quickly to correct your dog to move out (moving out is used in the confirmation ring).
Use a long soft leash to control your puppy and keep your pup in a positive mode by making a sweet calling noise to get the puppy moving in the direction you want to go. Call the pup, and then reward them when they move forward. This can be done with lots of praise and a quick pat on the chest, or a quick treat can be offered as a reward.
The puppy will learn that when he or she moves toward the sound of your voice and body language, they will receive a reward. Also, by giving the pup a quick jerk of the leash and releasing, this will teach the dog to respond to the action that comes "down" the leash. When the dog moves forward, you will need to praise and reward the dog, so the dog will achieve a great feeling of confidence. This is the way a dog learns everything!
As the dog responds faster to the command "hupp hupp" (German), or move out, they will be looking for a faster reward. Have that treat or toy ready. Don't miss your queue to reward your dog!
Walking an Adolescent or Mature Dog:
The adolescent (under 2 years of age) or mature dog, wants to go out on a walk all the time, so make sure you are aware of the guidelines, as stated by the breeder or your veterinarian, for your dogs training and activities.
Start working with your adolescent dog to move out by letting the dog walk ahead of you, versus the "American Heel". The moving ahead will help teach the dog to learn how to extend its gait and begin the flowing trot that shows their conformation and structure. The "American Heel" or the "Fuss" will be an exercise to teach your dog after he learns how to move out for the conformation ring. Your dog needs to have a long line. 8' ½" is a recommended lead size, and this will give you and your dog enough room to work without hindering any movement. Walk on grassy areas if possible, and watch for any deviations in the ground. Have an area that is enclosed or taped off, if possible, to practice this routine. This again helps the dog to know what to expect, and remember the next time. Plus the dog will associate the "enclosed" area with "moving out" and not the traditional heel.
Walk during the cool part of the day so the dog can perform at its best. Bring your ball, as a reward besides a treat. Bring water if you are going far from home. Take a break if you need one, as it is best to keep your concentration.
If you are approached by a strange dog, keep your dog close to you so that you can help control the situation. If another dog becomes aggressive to your dog, or to you, keep your voice strong and tell the other dog to go home. This may or may not work. Have pepper spray if you know you will encounter strays....or a walking stick if needed.
We can only hope that you will form a routine with your dog that will include a walk at least two to three times a week.
Your dog will become better and better with practice, and you will also become more experienced. This is only the beginning of loads of fun!
Now go walk your dog!
To Travel With Your Dog
your very first experience taking a
trip when you were young?
may recall feelings of uncertainty,
fear of the unknown, or even worse, a
total disaster. Some may remember the
thrill of experiencing a big world and
loving all the new sights and sounds.
Either way, we need to prepare you and
your pets for traveling.
prepare a written list of all supplies
needed- Make sure you include a
first aid kit for you and your dog.
Consult your veterinarian for some
additional supplies they may have
available for you to include in your
first aid kit. If your dog is on
medication, make sure you take extra.
forget to bring a grooming kit- In
addition to regular bathing supplies
include dry foaming shampoo for touch
ups. There may not be time for a full
bath so the foaming dry shampoo is a
real lifesaver. Bring some old towels
to use for this purpose, as well as
plenty of paper towels and garbage
bags. You will need a rake comb and
tick tweezers to remove unwanted pests
along the dusty trail. Simple Green is
a must for cleaning everything from
carpet to crates. Disposable plastic
gloves are great for hygiene.
and water- Bring plenty of food
just in case you stay longer than
Remember, bottled water is important
for the dogs as they too can get
parasites from un-purified water.
Bring extra water bowls and food
are essential- Dogs, like
children, can become bored traveling
long distances, so bring along chew
toys like nylon bones (rawhides can be
dangerous), and other favorite toys.
Your dog will be much happier if you
give them something to do.
and leashes- Take more than one
collar and leash in case one should
break or get lost. Collars and leashes
are easily misplaced, broken or left
out of reach when you need one the
where you are going- Plot out your
route on a map and do some advanced
research for emergency veterinarians
and animal clinics along the route in
case you have a real medical
emergency. Have their numbers and
addresses handy at all times.
crate is your best friend- Bring
plenty of towels and old blankets that
you can align the crate with. Have
extra so the crate is always clean.
out all motel/hotel or camping sites
in advance for pet accommodations-
Make sure your dog is allowed to stay
on their premises, and have them
confirm via fax or email with a copy
of their charges and policies.
you are traveling interstate, a
health certificate with
your rabies information maybe required
so check with your veterinarian or the
airline you are traveling with. If you
are traveling via the airlines, check
to see if you will need a "Letter
of Acclimation". If
you are going to be traveling for an
extended period of time, ask your
veterinarian to provide you with an
additional health certificate for your
return journey. Airlines will only
accept a health certificate for ten
days from the date is was originally
signed by your veterinarian.
you are traveling for more than 5
hours at a stretch by car, be sure to
stop and walk, water, and feed your
dog. Rest stops are not the best
places to give your dog a break. Other
pet owners have already been there
with their dogs, so cleanliness is
probably not the best. Instead, take
them to an area off the main road were
animal waste is less likely.
word about your crate- Be sure to
allow plenty of space for your dog to
stand up and completely turn around
(USDA and IATA regulations). It is a
must to allow the dog plenty of room
to stretch. This helps them to be ale
to cope with the stress of being boxed
in for long periods of time. Don't
forget to allow ample height space as
can be great fun with your dog as long
as you plan ahead!
HOW TO GLUE GERMAN SHEPHERD PUPPY EARS
on How to Glue German Shepherd Puppies
Go to this
website and order a set of ear forms,
they're not inexpensive so make sure
when the glue starts to dry out and
they get loose that you remove them
and re-glue. If they fall out the
puppy may eat/chew them up.
NOTE: I prefer
the “store bought” forms however
if you are having difficulty getting
them then a less expensive and more
readily available solution would be to
cut a piece of Dr. Scholl's
(moleskin ) in a triangular shape (not
TOO widely flared at the bottom)
that will be a the shape of, and a
little smaller than the ear, but long
enough to come within an inch or so of
the tip. Peel off adhesive backing,
add a thin layer of skin bond glue,
let dry until tacky and press into
position in the ear. Hold and firmly
press to surface of ear in a concave
position (like a shell) until you
think every part has been pressed well
against the clean skin. Make sure that
you have the form in smoothly with the
ear, no ripples or waves behind the
Get a tube of
skin bond glue.
is a link to buy the glue on line.
really good, make a solution in a
small bowl with 3 parts warm
water and 1 part distilled white
Use a cotton swab or a piece of an old
cotton T shirt and dip it in the
solution (make sure it's not dripping
wet) and clean out the ears. After you
have them clean you can also wipe them
with a moist alcohol swab to help keep
down the growth of bacteria.
Shave the inside of the ear(s) of any
long hair so the glue will stick
your pup is a long coat then also trim
the hair behind the ears, this will
take some of the weight off the ear
and help it to stand.
When the ear(s) are dry put a
very light/thin coat of glue in 1 ear,
and put a light/thin coat on
the back of the ear form, wait a
couple of minutes until the glue
in the ear and on the ear form gets
When you put the form in the
ear(s) insert and hold your thumb over the ear
canal so the form doesn't slip down
and cover it.
Do one ear at a time, repeat the same
process with the other ear.
The forms should stay in about 3 days
or so depending on how well you’ve
applied them and also taking into
account how often your puppy messes
with them, then the glue will dry out
and they will fall out (make sure they
don't get eaten).
Clean ears REALLY well and leave
them out for most of the day before
gluing them back in so they air out
and don't get infected.
You may have to repeat the process for
a few weeks until the ear(s)
are standing firm,
remember….persistence is the key.
* Buy some Knox unflavored gelatin in
the supermarket and mix (1) t-spoon in
with the puppies food with every
feeding, It contains marrow and can
help strengthen his ears.
* Remember to
always have a good strong (raw) beef
marrow bone on hand for the puppy to
chew on, it will help exercise the
muscles behind the ears and assist
with the ears standing.
Let me know how
you make out, please send some
pictures so I can see the results.
Pictures of Gluing Ear Forms in
German Shepherd Puppies Ears
pup with it's ears glued.
means Protection, Tracking and
Obedience, so a Schutzhund trained
canine is a complete working dog.
These dogs must put in 500-1000 dog
hours just to get their Schutzhund I
title, so they have to be of sound
mind and body. The top Shepherds are
universally in demand, not just in the
U.S.A. and Germany, but throughout the
does protection really mean?
training is grossly misunderstood by
the general public. A misconception
regarding protection training is
associating it with guard dog or
attack training. Nothing could be
further from the truth!
most important point to understand
when watching a protection routine, is
the relationship between dog and
handler. The dog must never bite the
trial helper unless either dog or the
handler is attacked. Then it must
attack fully and without hesitation.
Here the real difference between
Schutzhund and guard dog - attack
training becomes apparent. The dog
must stop biting on the command of the
handler and guard the trial helper
without further aggression. The
Schutzhund dog must always be under
the absolute control of the handler.
Schutzhund dog must be friendly and
approachable. It does not regard a
person as an enemy until the person
displays signs of hostility or
aggression towards him or his handler.
The Schutzhund dog is trained with
love, he and his master work together
as a team. The Schutzhund dog is not a
nuisance or danger to society. They
should never be put in the same
category as an attack dog.
final misconception involves the
feeling that a dog will protect his
owner "when the chips are
down". Most family dogs have been
taught not to show any aggression. In
addition many do not have the courage
to bite when threatened. An untrained
dog is an unpredictable dog.
Schutzhund dog who has had formal
protection training is predictable,
therefore an asset to his owner and to
the community. A well trained,
reliable dog can serve for many years
as a family protector and companion.
To many competitors this is a family
sport. Children are often seen playing
with their dogs before and after the
dog leaves the protection field. This
seems impossible to the uneducated,
but this is a product of good breeding
and proper training.
dogs are by far the most predictable,
trustworthy, and safe animals to be
who are familiar with A.K.C. obedience
will feel more comfortable in this
area, as many of the exercises are
similar. There is heeling, both on and
off lead. The sit, down and stay are
also done when the dog is moving.
Schutzhund applies it's own style to
the work. The handler and dog work on
a soccer size trial field. Some
exercises require the dog to heal
under the noise of a firing gun. In
addition to the normal dumbell
retrieval, the dog must retrieve over
several obstacles with varying degrees
of difficulty. Down stays and a long
send away conclude the test.
the Schutzhund dog is working he
should exhibit willingness and
enjoyment. The dog should perform the
exercises quickly, with spirit and
precision. Each exercise should be
taught to the dog to create the desire
to work in the dog. Dogs that are slow
or dull during the work are penalized
heavily by the judge.
training also carries a moral burden
for the trainer of a dog who is also
receiving protection training. It is
necessary that the dog be reliable and
under control in all situations. To be
a safe companion, the dog must master
walking at his master's side, lying
down and staying on command in any
location at any time.
is meant by Tracking?
requires the dog to meticulously
follow a person's footsteps over mixed
terrain, change direction and show
absolute accuracy and commitment to
finding the track. It must also find
dropped articles with human scent and
indicate their location to the
handler. Often this is done under less
than ideal circumstances with
difficult ground cover, bad weather
conditions and an aged track. Many
find tracking to be the most
satisfying experience in training,
when only the handler and dog are
and hip ratings
rating awared to Shepherds only when
they have accomplished a display of
high German standards. A judge will
choose only those who exemplify "Vor"
rating awarded only to Shepherds who
make the best placements in a Sieger
Show. "VA" means
"Excellent Select", thus VA1
is the title given to the Champion or
Sieger and Siegerin.
Klass 1, (Kkl1) which is the best
quality stock according to the Breed
for hip certification
is the best rating for hips, or
equivalent to OFA Excellent .
Normal is equivalent to OFA Good .
zugelassen is equivalent to OFA Fair
Your Vet and Your Vet Visitations
in mind, that finding the right
veterinarian is similar to choosing a
partner in life. As your new puppy
comes into your life you will need to
find someone you can count on through
life's trial and tribulations, because
it is not a question of whether or not
you are going to have problems in
life, it is a matter of how you will
while speaking with a customer they
gave me the complaints of their dog's
problems, and then proceeded to tell
me how their vet made some general
assumptions about the situation
without asking for any details or
background about the dog's parents or
genetic history. Nor were there any
questions about other dogs from that
specific breeding combination. The
answers they received from their
veterinarian were very generalized
"knee jerk" statements.
these kinds of veterinarians are out
there. There are poor medical
practitioners just as there are poor
practitioners in any other profession.
interviews before allowing a vet to
examine or treat your shepherd. Take
notes about the following:
which school did he or she
kind of specialized studies were
offered in their school programs?
if any, are their personal
species of clientele do they
they participate in continuing
they board certified in their
they offer you some references
from other clients?
they provide you with educational
resources on the care and health
of your shepherd?
other types of vets can they refer
you to if any specialists are
needed for your dog?
they certified to take x-rays
(hips, elbows, etc.)?
vaccinations required during the life
of your dog need to be mapped out on a
timeline, so, get in touch with your
new vet before you bring your new dog
home to understand the requirements
ahead of schedule.
these subject matters are the key to
understanding the requirements of
raising a great dog. Sound health
practices equate to longevity and
peace of mind.
you are a breeder, you will want to
also focus on these issues:
they interested in being a
breeder's vet- i.e. supply
medicines, wormers, etc, at cost
for bulk use?
they have experience with cesarean
they have an after office hours
telephone for taking emergencies?
is their fee structure for shots,
worming, x-rays, tattooing and
microchipping, regular office
visits, emergency visits, etc.
ask the vet about his knowledge of
nutrition, and how protein affects
a developing puppy, and long term
results in an adult.
are dedicated to the breeding of world
class genetics and raising superior
dogs, and we need educated experienced
individuals who have open minds.
Learning is an ongoing process and
working with a vet is a relationship
that can make or break your
relationship with your greatest asset,
your best friend.
do not hesitate to ask for help.
Waiting until it is too late can be
catastrophic to the health and life of
your dog and to your investment.
Taking quick "pat answers"
from someone who is too busy to care
or prejudiced by experiences of
dealing with inappropriate or in-bred
genetics will only cost you precious
time and money and put your dog at
risk. Choose a vet who specializes in
large breed dogs and has an active
interest in German Shepherd Dogs in
particular. They are out there! And
you can find them! For starters,
contact the American
Veterinary Medical Association
and the American
Board of Veterinary Practitioners
then consult with local Humane
Societies and German Shepherd Rescue
groups. All of these contacts combined
can provide you with a list that will
help you begin your search for the
right vet for your dog and you.
Click on Photo to View an Excellent Guide to Puppy
Development & Socialization